How to Fit a Dishwasher Under a Counter and Check for Leaks

Decide whether the location is ready

An empty space under the counter is only part of what you need. We'd check the connections and your model's installation requirements first, because an equipped replacement location and a first-time installation involve different work.

Use your model number to find the matching installation guide and keep it alongside this general procedure. The fitting details below draw on US Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid guidance; your appliance's instructions govern its parts, connections and installation limits.

Whirlpool calls for an existing water line, drain line and power cord, while also specifying that the cabinet opening contain no existing utility connections. Check both the available services and the opening itself before proceeding.

If you've never installed a large appliance, lack plumbing and electrical experience, or can't directly access the location, arrange professional installation. Maytag recommends professional consultation for plumbing and electrical work, with a licensed electrical installer handling first-time electrical connections or hardwiring; KitchenAid gives the same electrical handoff for a first installation or relocation.

For an equipped kitchen, KitchenAid offers installation at checkout (opens in a new tab). Whirlpool and Maytag also offer professional installation for most major appliances.

Measure the space and check the parts

Measure the opening's width, depth and height, then compare those measurements with the dishwasher and its installation requirements. KitchenAid advises measuring depth from the back wall to the front of the counter when an old dishwasher still occupies the opening.

Allow room to maneuver the appliance into place and open its door. Check depth as well as height: the dishwasher needs to sit far enough back for its front to line up with the surrounding cabinet doors.

Maytag's general clearance guidance (opens in a new tab) suggests 2 inches between the appliance and cabinet, at least 27 inches in front for opening the door, and at least 2 inches between the open door and adjacent walls or cabinets in a corner. Treat those as Maytag's general planning figures; use your model's installation dimensions for the actual opening.

Disconnect and remove the old dishwasher

For a replacement, finish the power and water shutoff before loosening any hose. Keep a towel, shallow pan or bucket ready because water can remain in the drain hose after the supply is off.

1. Turn off the dishwasher's electricity at the circuit breaker, then shut off its water supply. With both off, unplug a cord-connected dishwasher and disconnect its water line and drain hose, catching the remaining water in your container.
2. Remove the screws securing the dishwasher to the countertop or side cabinets. Remove the installation access or toe panel below the door and adjust the leveling legs for removal; KitchenAid specifies shortening them so the appliance clears the opening.
3. Place a clean, dry towel or large piece of cardboard in front to protect the floor from scratches. With another person helping, pull the dishwasher onto it and move the old appliance clear of the opening.

Use the Whirlpool replacement sequence (opens in a new tab) alongside the old appliance's instructions for its anchors, lower access panel and leveling legs.

Unpack and prepare the new appliance

Remove the shipping packaging, then open the door and take out the protective foam and wrap. Set aside separately packed parts and tools, and save a large piece of cardboard for protecting the floor when you move the new appliance.

Have another person help you gently lay the dishwasher on its back. Remove its shipping base where applicable and the lower installation access panel, following the model's preparation instructions.

If your model has a drip tray with sensors, disconnect those sensors as directed during preparation. Maytag's preparation guidance (opens in a new tab) specifically describes removing the tray and disconnecting the drip sensor on newer Maytag dishwashers, then setting them aside.

Any cord preparation involving the terminal box belongs with the electrical installer and your model's wiring instructions. Once the cord is prepared, attach the drain hose to the dishwasher's drain port and route that hose and the cord underneath the rear legs as directed.

Keep an included insulation blanket in place even if it fits tightly in the opening. It helps reduce operating noise, so removing it to gain space changes more than the fit.

Make the water connection at the dishwasher

For the elbow-and-fill-hose arrangement described by Whirlpool and KitchenAid, check that the rubber washer is inside the water hose fitting before making the connection. Use your model's instructions to confirm that this is its connection arrangement.

Attach the 90-degree elbow fitting to the water supply line and connect the fill hose to the valve on the bottom of the dishwasher. Tighten by hand, then use pliers for an additional quarter to half turn, following Whirlpool's water connection guidance (opens in a new tab).

Don't apply Teflon tape or thread sealer to the water valve threads. Keep the specified rubber washer in the fitting and follow the stated tightening amount, then route the water supply line toward the rear of the dishwasher.

Plan the drain route before sliding it in

Identify whether the drain hose will connect to the sink drain or garbage disposer inlet. For a new disposal connection, knock out and remove the disposal's dishwasher drain plug before attaching the hose, as Maytag directs; that opening must be clear for the dishwasher to drain.

Maytag's drain-routing requirements (opens in a new tab) call for a proper high loop or an air gap according to local codes. Match the hose's length, routing and height to your model's installation instructions.

For the hose arch described by Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid, secure the slack to the back of the cabinet under the sink so the hose rises above the drain inlet. This helps prevent sink water from flowing back toward the dishwasher.

Keep the hose free of pinches, crushing and sharp bends behind the appliance and under the sink. At the final drain connection, secure it with the required clamp; Maytag warns that a low or kinked hose can allow water back into the tub.

Set the height, level it and secure it

Use the floor-to-countertop opening height to adjust the rear leveling legs, and check them with a level. Flat, level placement matters for water drainage, not only for how the dishwasher looks beside the cabinets.

With your helper, stand the dishwasher upright on the saved cardboard and move it toward the opening. Feed the cord, water supply line and drain hose through the side opening into the sink cabinet; Maytag and KitchenAid describe an initial position about 6 inches from the back before final positioning.

Fit the anchor brackets in the locations your model uses. Maytag's bracket guidance (opens in a new tab) describes slots at the left and right top of the dishwasher collar or slots on each side, while Whirlpool describes brackets at the top left and right.

Slide the dishwasher back until its front is flush with the surrounding cabinet doors. Check level along the top edge and, in Maytag's procedure, up and down the door; adjust the front legs until the appliance is level and the feet sit firmly against the floor, then screw the brackets in place.

Check that the door opens and closes without hitting the counter. If it hits, adjust the legs; if the side gaps are unequal, loosen the brackets and shift the dishwasher into alignment, then secure the brackets again.

Complete the connections and restore supplies

With the appliance secured, complete the hot-water supply connection and the drain connection according to your model's instructions. Open the water shutoff valve, and reconnect and return any drip tray and sensor removed during preparation.

Plug the prepared power cord into the appropriate outlet. Maytag's US electrical guidance (opens in a new tab) specifies a 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp fused supply; check your actual model's requirements and consult a licensed professional about any electrical questions.

Restore electricity at the circuit breaker and ensure the appliance's water supply is on. The fitting sequence now leaves the dishwasher anchored and connected for its operating test.

Run the leak test before replacing the panels

Run the test cycle specified in your dishwasher's installation instructions and check for leaks or performance problems. KitchenAid's completion guidance (opens in a new tab) places this test after securing and connecting the appliance, with the front access panel reattached after a successful result.

If the test exposes a leak or another issue you aren't sure how to handle, pause completion and contact a professional appliance installer for assistance. A successful test is the point to finish the installation.

Replace the applicable lower insulation and panels as your model directs. Maytag describes adding insulation underneath the door before reinstalling the access and toe panels; Whirlpool and KitchenAid specify that the access panel's printed side faces the dishwasher.

Remove the remaining protective film from the exterior and, where fitted, the interior racks.