Check whether the location is ready
- Measure the opening and check its water, drain and power connections against your dishwasher's installation instructions.
- Get someone to help move the appliance. Have a licensed electrical installer handle hardwiring or new electrical connections.
- Fit the hoses, level and secure the dishwasher, then complete the connections.
- Run its specified test cycle before replacing the lower panels. Stop if you find a leak.
An empty space under the counter is only part of what you need. We'd check the connections first, because replacing a dishwasher in an equipped kitchen is a different job from creating a new installation location. Use your model number to get its installation instructions before disconnecting anything.
| Check | What you find | Next move |
|---|---|---|
| Location | An existing dishwasher with usable connections | Measure the opening and plan the replacement steps below. |
| Location | A new spot or missing connections | Arrange plumbing and electrical help before fitting the appliance. Check local permit requirements for new work. |
| Power | A cord and suitable outlet, or a hardwired connection | Check your model's power requirements. Have a licensed electrical installer handle hardwiring or new electrical connections. |
| Drain | A sink drain or disposer inlet | Plan the required high loop or air gap. Remove a new disposer's dishwasher plug before connecting the hose. |
| Mounting | Top or side bracket positions | Use the positions specified for your model. Side mounting is an option on LG installations beneath surfaces that drilling could damage. |
A new location may need more than longer hoses: extended reach is outside a standard Frigidaire installation, and local rules can require permits for new plumbing or changes to hardwired electrical work. If you've never installed a large appliance, lack plumbing or electrical experience, or can't directly access the location, arrange professional installation.
The steps below cover a typical US undercounter installation. Parts and connection details vary by model. If you have a KitchenAid, you can get its installation steps (opens in a new tab) alongside the instructions for your exact model.
Measure the opening and gather the parts
Measure the opening's width, depth and height, then compare them with the dishwasher's dimensions and installation requirements. If the old machine is still in place, measure depth from the back wall to the front of the counter. Leave room to move the dishwasher in and open its door.
For Maytag planning, allow at least 27 inches in front of the dishwasher for the door and at least 2 inches between an open door and adjacent walls or cabinets in a corner. Use your model's specified opening dimensions for the fit. Maytag owners can download a matching installation guide (opens in a new tab) using the model number.
- Check whether a water supply line is included. Some dishwashers don't come with one.
- Gather the supplied parts and any additional tools or supplies listed for your model.
- Leave room for an air gap if your installation requires one.
- Check the required power cord or cord kit. Maytag lists straight and right-angle kits for its dishwashers.
Plan where the drain hose will go
The hose connects to the sink drain or the garbage disposer inlet. If the disposer is new, knock out and remove its dishwasher drain plug before attaching the hose. Secure the finished connection with the required clamp.
The hose needs a high loop or an air gap where required by local codes. Keep it free of pinches, crushing and sharp bends behind the dishwasher and under the sink. Secure the slack under the sink so the hose arches above the drain inlet, which helps keep sink water from flowing back toward the dishwasher.
| Dishwasher | Published drain guidance |
|---|---|
| GE Appliances | A high drain loop is at least 32 inches above the floor. |
| Frigidaire | Keep the drain hose at least 32 inches above the floor. |
Match the hose height and route to your model's instructions. If a newly installed Maytag won't drain, its installation drain checks (opens in a new tab) cover the hose route, loop or air gap, and disposer plug.
Fit, level and connect the dishwasher
Keep a towel, shallow pan or bucket ready for water left in the old drain hose. The removal instructions below assume a cord-connected dishwasher; have a licensed electrical installer handle an old hardwired connection.
- Turn off the dishwasher's electricity at the breaker, then shut off its water supply. Unplug a cord-connected machine and disconnect its water line and drain hose, catching remaining water in your container. Both supplies should be off before you loosen a hose.
- Remove the screws securing the old dishwasher to the counter or cabinets. Have the installer remove its lower access or toe panel and shorten the leveling legs as its instructions direct. With another person helping, pull it onto a clean, dry towel or cardboard and move it clear. The opening is now ready for the new appliance.
- Remove the new dishwasher's shipping materials and the protective foam and wrap inside it. Set aside separately packed parts and save cardboard for the floor. With help, gently lay the appliance on its back and remove the shipping base where applicable. Have the installer remove the lower access panel and disconnect any drip-tray sensor specified for preparation. Keep an included insulation blanket in place.
- Have the electrical installer prepare any cord connection inside the terminal box. Attach the drain hose to the dishwasher's drain port and route the hose and cord beneath the rear legs as your model directs. They should be ready to feed through the side opening without being trapped under the machine.
- If your model uses a 90-degree elbow and fill hose, check that the rubber washer is inside the hose fitting. Attach the elbow to the supply line and the fill hose to the valve on the bottom of the dishwasher. Tighten by hand, then add a quarter to half turn with pliers. Don't put Teflon tape or thread sealer on the water valve threads. Route the supply line toward the rear.
- Adjust the rear legs for the floor-to-countertop opening height. With your helper, stand the dishwasher upright on the cardboard and feed the cord and hoses through the side opening into the sink cabinet. Slide it in, keeping the hoses clear. Fit the brackets in your model's top or side positions, then bring the front flush with the cabinet doors. Check level across the top, adjust the front legs until the feet sit firmly on the floor, and secure the brackets. The door should open without hitting the counter.
- Complete the hot-water and drain connections for your model, then open the water shutoff valve. Have the installer reconnect any drip tray and sensor removed during preparation. Plug a prepared cord into the appropriate outlet and restore power at the breaker. Check that the dishwasher is anchored, the water is on and the visible hoses are free of kinks before testing.
If the door hits the counter, adjust the legs. If the side gaps are unequal, loosen the brackets, shift the dishwasher into alignment and secure them again. For a US Maytag installation, the specified electrical supply is a 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp fused circuit; check your exact model's requirements.
Watch the test cycle before covering the connections
Run the test cycle specified for your dishwasher with the lower access panel still off. Check that it powers on, fills and drains. While it runs, look for water at each connection you can safely see. If water appears, note where it showed up; our leaking dishwasher guide can help you describe the location without running another cycle.
Tell the installer whether the dishwasher started, filled and drained, and where you saw water. Have the model number and installation date ready, and check the model's warranty before booking service. For a US Bosch dishwasher, the limited whole-appliance warranty lists one year of parts and labor. An out-of-warranty Bosch Factory Service visit has a listed $179 call-out fee; you can book Bosch service (opens in a new tab).
If the test won't start or drain
If it won't start, check the breaker, door and settings, then use our checks for a dishwasher that won't turn on. If it won't drain after installation, first check whether the hose was pinched as the dishwasher slid into place. Check the loop or air gap and, on a new disposer, the drain plug. Our dishwasher drain checks cover what to inspect next.
If those visible checks don't resolve the problem, pause completion and contact the installer. Give them the model number, installation date and the point in the test where the dishwasher stopped working.
A few questions that come up during installation
How long should I allow?
Allow about two to four hours as a general installation estimate. Removing an old dishwasher adds work.
Can I use the wood runners from the packaging?
If your dishwasher includes wood runners, they can serve as shims when the cabinet opening is slightly wider or the floor beneath needs building up. Use them only where your model's installation instructions allow.
What if it doesn't fill during the test?
Check that the door is fully closed and the water supply valve is on. If it still doesn't fill, pause completion and contact the installer.
Is a little water left in the tub normal?
A little standing water can be normal. If water is accumulating, check the drain route and filter before treating the test as successful.
Who handles a drying problem right after installation?
For a Frigidaire installed within the past 30 days, contact the installer if the drying problem remains after the relevant Frigidaire checks.
Replace the lower panels after a successful test
Once the dishwasher passes its test cycle without leaks or performance problems, have the installer replace the lower insulation and panels as your model requires. On a Maytag, insulation goes beneath the door before the access and toe panels are reinstalled.
On Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, the access panel's printed side faces the dishwasher. Remove the remaining protective film from the exterior and, where fitted, the interior racks.
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